Concept

Wave shoaling

OpenAlex ID: C103437262

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

1999 · N. Booij, R. C. Ris, et al. · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 4,566

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Quasi-Geostrophic Motions in the Equatorial Area

1966 · Taroh Matsuno · Journal of the Meteorological Society of Japan Ser II · 2,741

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Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom

1979 · William D. Grant, Ole Secher Madsen · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 1,488

Alternative Form of Boussinesq Equations for Nearshore Wave Propagation

1993 · Okey Nwogu · Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 1,167

Transformation of wave height distribution

1983 · Edward B. Thornton, R. T. Guza · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 895

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 2. Verification

1999 · R. C. Ris, L. H. Holthuijsen, et al. · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 891

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On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 1. The elementary interactions

1960 · O. M. Phillips · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 695

Laboratory measurements of deep-water breaking waves

1990 · R. J. Rapp, W. K. Melville · Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London Series A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 588

Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar

1993 · S. Beji, J.A. Battjes · Coastal Engineering · 527

Particle injection into the wave acceleration phase due to nonlinear wake wave breaking

1998 · S. Bulanov, N. Naumova, et al. · Physical review. E, Statistical physics, plasmas, fluids, and related interdisciplinary topics · 456

Swash oscillations on a natural beach

1982 · R. T. Guza, Edward B. Thornton · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 456

Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves

1985 · Steve Elgar, R. T. Guza · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 448

Particle trajectories in solitary water waves

2007 · Adrian Constantin, Joachim Escher · Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society · 441

Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone

1984 · I.A. Svendsen · Coastal Engineering · 392

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Near Field Characteristics of Landslide Generated Impulse Waves

2004 · H. M. Fritz, W. H. Hager, et al. · Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering · 385

An experimental investigation of breaking waves produced by a towed hydrofoil

1981 · J. H. Duncan · Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A Mathematical and Physical Sciences · 356

Wind wave prediction in shallow water: Theory and applications

1981 · Luigi Cavaleri, Paola Malanotte Rizzoli · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 354

Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile

1985 · William R. Dally, Robert G. Dean, et al. · Journal of Geophysical Research Atmospheres · 349

On the parabolic equation method for water-wave propagation

1979 · A. C. Radder · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 344

The propagation of groups of internal gravity waves in a shear flow

1966 · F. P. Bretherton · Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society · 341

Experiments to dambreak wave: Horizontal channel

1998 · Guido Lauber, Willi H. Hager · Journal of Hydraulic Research · 337

A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water

1993 · Hemming A. Schäffer, Per A. Madsen, et al. · Coastal Engineering · 327

Non-linear dispersion of water waves

1967 · G. B. Whitham · Journal of Fluid Mechanics · 326

A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents

1989 · L.H. Holthuijsen, N. Booij, et al. · Coastal Engineering · 322

A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water

1996 · T. E. Baldock, C. Swan, et al. · Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A Mathematical Physical and Engineering Sciences · 317

Works count: 4,140

Citation count: 73,530