Beyond the surface: a closer look at the stratigraphy of synthetic-coated fabrics in fashion collections and commercial samples through optical microscopy

Year: 2024

Type: article

Abstract: Synthetic-coated fabrics, often made of short-life expectancy coatings, namely plasticised poly(vinyl chloride) (p‑PVC) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), are challenging to preserve. These materials are poorly studied within the conservation field, and there is a lack of research and solutions for their preservation. This study aimed to provide insight into the yet unknown variability of p-PVC and TPU-coated fabrics in fashion collections. The subtle differences in layer construction and morphology were investigated in a selected set of materials to unveil production methods and better understand delamination damages, namely peeling and flaking. Optical microscopy provided primary material assessment, complemented by ATR-FTIR for molecular identification. A wide variability of synthetic-coated fabrics was reported and connections between morphology, production methods and delamination damages were suggested. Optical microscopy proved to be a powerful tool in the study of the stratigraphy of coated fabrics, enhancing material knowledge for more informed conservation decisions.

Source: Conservar Património

DOI: 10.14568/cp34830

Authors: Joana Tomás Ferreira, Sander De Vrieze, Eline van der Velde, Kim Verkens, Susana França de Sá

Institutions: LAQV Requimte, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Centexbel, ModeMuseum Antwerpen

Language: English

Topic: Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis

Subfield: Archeology

Field: Arts and Humanities

Domain: Social Sciences

Open Access status: diamond

Funders: Ministério da Ciência, Tecnologia e Ensino Superior, Rede de Química e Tecnologia, Laboratório Associado para a Química Verde, Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia

OpenAlex ID: W4402406141