Year: 2024
Type: article
Abstract: Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.
Language: English
Topic: Skin Protection and Aging
Subfield: Dermatology
Field: Medicine
Domain: Health Sciences
Open Access status: hybrid
Estimated APC paid: $3,290
Awards: G1011301058, G1348429418, G1516346500, G1577006909, Centro de Inovação em Biomedicina e Biotecnologia, G1948874405, Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, Discovery of new active ingredients for skin care, G2737160601, Unidade de Ciências Biomoleculares Aplicadas, G4018626065, Unidade de Ciências Biomoleculares Aplicadas, G4315839835, G4372957208, G4500275458, G4705738886, G5102859434, G5506743709, G562452873, G6677746308, HealthyAging2020, G6997658380, G7025809067, Instituto para a Saúde e a Bioeconomia, G7173599139, G7268961229, Centro de Inovação em Biomedicina e Biotecnologia - Laboratório Associado, G7618362371, G7778222860, G810402943, G8144730050, G8572471991, G949874453
OpenAlex ID: W4402941987