Work

Holding forces of two-stranded Figure-8 knotted slings in sandstone cracks: Experiments and analytical modelling

Year: 2026

Type: article

Abstract: In the Elbe Sandstone Mountains two-stranded Figure-8 knotted slings are commonly used as climbing protection.These protections are experimentally examined on the basis of 8 mm technical accessory cord in an artificial crack test rig.The resulting load-bearing capacity by means of the maximum force is characterized for different friction linings while varying the crack angle and crack width.Based on the experimental results and an analytical model, it is demonstrated that for crack angles below 20° the required crack widths are less than the 1.5-fold rope diameter to effectively withstand typical forces encountered during a lead climber fall.

Source: Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers Part P Journal of Sports Engineering and Technology

DOI: 10.1177/17543371261463813

Authors: Lars Muschalski, Richard Protz, Jörn Jaschinski, Andreas Hornig, Maik Gude

Institutions: Technische Universität Dresden, University of Oxford

Language: English

Topic: Mechanical stress and fatigue analysis

Subfield: Mechanics of Materials

Field: Engineering

Domain: Physical Sciences

Open Access status: hybrid

Estimated APC paid: $4,150

OpenAlex ID: W4408697270

FWCI:

Cites: 6

Cited by:

Related to: 10