Work

Chamomile Matters: Species- and Producer-Dependent Variation in Bulgarian Matricaria recutita L. and Chamaemelum nobile L. Essential Oils and Their Cosmetic Potential

Year: 2025

Type: article

Abstract: Chamomile essential oils (EOs) are widely used in cosmetics for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Bulgaria, with its long-standing tradition in EO production, provides an ideal setting to examine the influence of species and cultivation practices on oil quality. This study compares the chemical composition and biological activity of EOs from German chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile L.), sourced from two major Bulgarian producers—Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. and Kateko Ltd. (Plovdiv, Bulgaria). Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) profiling revealed species- and producer-dependent differences. German chamomile EOs were rich in β-farnesene, chamazulene, and bisabolol oxides, whereas Roman chamomile EOs were dominated by isobutyl angelate and related esters. Antioxidant activity, assessed via the ABTS assay, was higher in German chamomile EOs, especially from Bulgarska Bilka Ltd. The oils also showed photoprotective potential, with SPF values of 26–27 for German and 9–16 for Roman chamomile. Anti-inflammatory activity, evaluated by inhibition of albumin denaturation, was highest in Roman chamomile oils and comparable to that of prednisolone, while German chamomile also showed strong effects. Antimicrobial activity was generally low, with moderate effects observed only against Penicillium chrysogenum and Aspergillus flavus. These findings support the targeted use of chamomile EOs in cosmetics—German chamomile for antioxidant-rich, UV-protective, and microbiome-supportive care, and Roman chamomile for soothing, anti-inflammatory, and fragrance-enhancing applications.

Source: Cosmetics

DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics12030123