Year: 2025
Type: article
Abstract: Coastal profile models are frequently used for the computation of storm-induced erosion at (nourished) beaches. Attention is focused on new developments and new validation exercises for the detailed process-based CROSMOR-model for the computation of storm-induced morphological changes in sand and gravel coasts. The following new model improvements are studied: (1) improved runup equations based on the available field data; (2) the inclusion of the uniformity coefficient (Cu = d60/d10) of the bed material affecting the settling velocity of the suspended sediment and thus the suspended sediment transport; (3) the inclusion of hard bottom layers, so that the effect of a submerged breakwater on the beach–dune morphology can be assessed; and (4) the determination of adequate model settings for the accretive and erosive conditions of coarse gravel–shingle types of coasts (sediment range of 2 to 40 mm). The improved model has been extensively validated for sand and gravel coasts using the available field data sets. Furthermore, a series of sensitivity computations have been made to study the numerical parameters (time step, grid size and bed-smoothing) and key physical parameters (sediment size, wave height, wave incidence angle, wave asymmetry and wave-induced undertow), conditions affecting the beach morphodynamic processes. Finally, the model has been used to study various alternative methods of reducing beach erosion.
DOI: 10.3390/jmse13102011
Authors: L. C. van Rijn, K. Dumont, B. Malherbe
Language: English
Topic: Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Subfield: Earth-Surface Processes
Field: Earth and Planetary Sciences
Domain: Physical Sciences
Open Access status: gold
Estimated APC paid: $3,137
OpenAlex ID: W4415369963