Work

Development of a Pigment-Correcting Serum Addressing Key Pathways in the Melanin Life Cycle

Year: 2026

Type: article

Abstract: Background: Hyperpigmentation is a difficult-to-manage chronic condition typically treated using topical agents and cosmetic procedures. Topical treatments frequently include hydroquinone (HQ) 4%, which is limited by tolerability concerns for long-term use. Therefore, HQ-free cosmeceutical topical treatments for long-term control of hyperpigmentation are needed. Purpose: This exploratory study sought to characterize the potential mechanism of action of a novel, cosmetic, topical, HQ-free, pigment-correcting serum formulated with lotus sprout extract, tranexamic acid (TXA), and niacinamide (LTN) designed to target 6 key cellular pathways of the melanin life cycle aimed at improving the appearance of skin hyperpigmentation. Patients and Methods: In vitro studies were conducted using the MelanoDerm human skin model. Gene expression, melanin concentrations, and histology were assessed after treatment with LTN serum or commercially available comparator formulations; samples were also examined with individual typology angle (ITA) and electron microscopy. Delivery and skin penetration of TXA and phenylethyl resorcinol (PER) were assessed using Franz-type diffusion cells. Results: ≤0.05) decreased expression of genes associated with melanogenesis. Median ITAs indicated paler skin color when treated with LTN serum compared with control (51.3° vs 28.9°). Electron micrographs demonstrated that LTN serum affected melanosome development and promoted melanosome degradation in melanocytes and keratinocytes. The LTN serum formulation is optimally designed to facilitate delivery of TXA and PER into epidermis and dermis. LTN serum led to greater inhibition of melanin production versus comparator formulations. Conclusion: LTN serum is the first topical to target 6 key pathways in the melanin life cycle, including melanosome degradation, aimed at improving the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Overall, our in vitro results reinforce observed clinical efficacy while providing further mechanistic insights into LTN serum treatment effects. The LTN serum may be a potential long-term, HQ-free treatment option for patients with hyperpigmentation.

Source: Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology

DOI: 10.2147/ccid.s552759