Exploring sensory potential of NaDES: from synthetic skin to cosmetic applications
Year: 2025
Type: conference-paper
Abstract: Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) are making their way into the cosmetic field as alternative solvents and keycomponents of innovative active ingredients. Composed of natural, biodegradable compounds, NaDES align with theindustry's commitment to eco-responsibility while offering functional benefits such as solvent action, plasticization andstabilization. Beyond these roles, their sensory potential, essential for consumer acceptance, remains largely unexploredin cosmetic formulations. This study adopts an innovative approach by investigating the sensory properties of NaDESusing synthetic skin models, bridging the gap between in vitro and human sensory analysis.Sensory properties such as spreading, friction, stickiness and glossiness were assessed on synthetic skin substrates,using physicochemical and biometrological analyses. This methodology enabled precise evaluation of NaDES sensoryinteractions and their correlation with expected performance on human skin. Principal Component Analysis (PCA)highlighted distinct behaviors on the skin between hydrophilic and lipophilic NaDES, driven by their physicochemicalproperties. Lipophilic NaDES, with their high spreading ability and low stickiness, mimic traditional emollients, promotingfilm uniformity and skin coverage while potentially enhancing active ingredient delivery. In contrast, hydrophilic NaDES,characterized by higher stickiness and limited spreading, align with humectant properties, providing localized hydratingeffects due to their hygroscopic nature. These results demonstrate that NaDES can deliver tailored sensory experiences,offering a sensory dimension that complements their functional properties. This study highlights their potential totranscend the role of simple solvents, adding sensory value to cosmetic formulations.This study is among the first to evaluate sensory properties of NaDES using synthetic skin models, offering new insightson their expected behaviour on skin and their multifunctional properties. NaDES emerge as sustainable, versatileingredients capable of driving innovation in cosmetic systems, paving the way for eco-conscious formulations that meetboth consumer expectations and regulatory standards.
Source: HAL
Language: English
Subfield: Physical and Theoretical Chemistry
Field: Chemistry
Domain: Physical Sciences
Open Access status: green
OpenAlex ID: W7205448155